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Transient Thoughts…
I wrote this piece whilst waiting in London, Heathrow. I read it to a few friends and they insisted I post it.
Apex of a New Low.
Children of Man
Mother’s Day Present
London
London:
On my way back from the sunny Isle of Malta I had a change over in London. I flew into Luton airport at 11:00 pm and left on a bus the next day at 10:00 pm.
With 23 hours to kill, and very little money to speak of, this is the story of how I experienced London.
I left Luton Airport at about 7:00. I found a bus ticket for 8 £, which was a huge answer to prayer (6 £ less than normal fare). From the bus station I searched for some cheap breakfast and scouted out possibilities for cheap lunch and dinner. At a local grocery I found:
1: Really cheap bread
2: Clementines on Sale
3: 2 for 1 muffins
Buying the muffins, I tucked the bread and oranges on the backburner as an idea for lunch/dinner.
London was in rare form that day. The sun was out and warming its denizens with golden rays. The breeze was refreshing without being chilling, and the tourists were everywhere. I walked to St. James Park next to Buckingham Palace to eat and wait for the changing of the guard. I ate one muffin and gave the second one to a new friend I met, and sat on a bench under a blooming cherry tree and asked potential friends about their coffee. (It should be explained that for me lack of sleep always produces lowered inhibitions.)
When 10:30 rolled around I went up to the palace, now surrounded by thousands of people… It was crazy!! Being me, I worked my way through the crowd until I was right up against the gate and assumed 5th position, en pointe and waited. The musical cacophony of lilting accents and foreign languages was entrancing, but as I stood there I recognized something about one of the voices around me. I turned around and asked
“If you don’t mind me asking, where are ya’ll from?”
Only to hear to my great excitement, “We’re from Georgia, where you from?”
“Georgia!” I exclaimed too loudly, “You have no idea how nice it is to hear a familiar voice.”
We quickly exchanged southern credentials and information. I explained my presence and why I was so glad to meet them. These wonderful people were from West Georgia and were taking a vacation exploring their family tree in England. We watched the changing of the guard, (poking fun at the British of course), but didn’t see much because we were one of several thousand. Afterward they invited me out to lunch, so perfectly understanding the universal plight of college students everywhere. They adopted me for a few hours that day.
I know this sounds strange, but reader, it was a godsend to be with them: a much need respite of hospitality in a city thousands of miles from home. For sooth, I didn’t know I needed one until I had it. Those who know me know I don’t ever shy away from doing something new, strange, bizarre, scary or foreign. But for that one day, it was the perfect thing to have a family for a few hours.
We parted ways after that. I walked down Fleet Street and the Strand to go to St. Paul’s. I ended up taking Mass in a Catholic church before I made it to the Cathedral. I should mention that I couldn’t actually pay to enter St. Paul’s, so I just prayed in the side chapel (which more than sufficed). From there I went to Westminster, walking along the Thames until I saw the Buildings of Parliament. I walked around the Abbey (I couldn’t pay to get into there either). But I did find a small, empty chapel which was open. I had such a rockin’ time in Westminster… It was incredible.
I left the chapel after I had cooled off and I just started walking around (probably where I wasn’t supposed to be).
I saw Rodin’s Burghers or Calais.
I spoke with a man protesting the United States.
I spoke with a man who tries to get people to ride the train for a living.
And I bought four loves of bread and 16 clementines for my dinner: which I ate on the bus back.
On our midway stop to Glasgow at 4:00 am I freakishly happened to meet Mr. J.T. Wood going to London on the night bus. He was more disturbed by it than I was.
I finally made it back to Glasgow and I haven’t left since.
A Case of Mistaken Identity
Now time for Reflection:
Let me begin by saying that I really enjoyed Malta. I loved it. The food is really good (kind of Italian with a twist), the sun shines often; there is a relaxed atmosphere, which I think, stems from colonization after colonization. The people are used to tourists, which makes them moderately helpful, but careful about their culture. Every great empire in the history of world has ruled the Maltese. Phoenicians, Egyptians, Greeks, Romans, Brits, and now they are independent. They seem to know that everything will pass away, so don’t worry too much about it.
Which leads me to my next thought: I don’t understand Malta. I have, of course, been comparing them to the Scots, cause that is what I have seen. Visiting the Scottish museums and the Maltese museums has led me to the conclusion that the Scots, who have never been conquered, have no idea of their cultural identity, and the Maltese, spending 99% of their recorded history (the history of Malta goes back 7000 years) belonging to someone else, have relinquished their need to be empowered by a sense of false nationalism. Don’t misunderstand me; they have a long and brilliant history, but it is also a humbling one. Even now, 100% of the Maltese economy is based in the service industry. They seem to have shed the need for a unifying national identity, taking in its place an understanding that these things don’t last anyway.
I don’t know what else to say about this. Malta is a beautiful country: The beaches, the grottos, the temples and churches, and the ancient Roman cities all hold treasures and stories; I think the difference in Malta is they know these things are commercialized, and they don’t mind so much. Oddly enough, putting an honest price on these things didn’t cheapen them. I appreciated the way the Maltese communicate their culture; it was with dignity and ease, as if they knew what we were there for and knew we would leave after we had got what we came for. They knew we, like the conquering empires, would simply pass away.
Malta: 9/10 days of sun.
As I walk through life I attempt to do what I believe every human does with their lives; find a story within. So upon my return from Malta I wanted to find a unifying theme which explicated, expounded, or elucidated the experience (which I think people have been trying to do when they go to Malta for a long time).
Let’s begin with a short narrative (with screwed up dates) of my time there:
I arrived late and went to meet my friend Jasmine at the Hotel where we stayed for two nights. The interim days were spent mostly in exploring the area where we found ourselves. Almost as if we were living there; we searched out the places for free internet, the cheapest pizza stands, the best place to buy groceries, and the best bars.
My next three nights were spent in the home of my new CouchSurfing friend Daniel.
One day was filled with tourist-y things: visiting the 7000 year old temples and burial grounds, seeing the beautiful landscape and crystal clear water of the Mediterranean which surrounds blessed Malta’s rocky coast.
Day 2 with Daniel we went rock-climbing with friends. Good Friday in Malta is a huge deal so everyone had the day off. I met a group of the coolest people I have ever had the privilege to speak too. Men and women from Germany, France, Bulgaria, Spain, Argentina, and Turkey, all spoke English and most spoke Spanish. The European Union has a similar program to Americorps, in which young people can go volunteer in different capacities and have their housing, food, and transportation taken care of: most of them were taking part in this program. Every single one was as warm as the sun on that beautiful day. Truthfully, if you ever get the chance to work in Malta, take it. This country is incredible.
Later that day there was a blackout for about 3 hours, which seemed apt on Good Friday.
Saturday we went to the Three Cities, an old place with some really cool places just for walking around in. I think I have some pictures… (You can see them when I get back to my camera cord: June 1st)
NOTE: One of these days we visited the ancient Roman city of Medina (where some really cool glass is made) and the third largest dome in Europe in Mosta, of which you can read about online. This wonderful day also included a self-guided walking tour of the Maltese countryside, during which we managed to see nothing of importance, and you guessed it; happened largely by mistake.
Sunday was spent on the island of Gozo. For sooth I was not pleased spending Easter Sunday romping around like a crazy tourist, but somehow I made it through. The Azure window was beautiful, but paled in comparison to the beauty of the living things of the tidal-pools in its shadow.
The next day afterward are largely immaterial for the sake of a narrative, except perhaps for a particularly enjoyable meal I had alone on a balcony, consisting largely of sunshine, fresh strawberries, bread, three different cheeses, and some local brew.
I spent the next couple days mostly in some much needed solitude and rest. At points I felt a bit stir-crazy, so I went out for a walk just to feel the movement of my own legs, which of course got me thinking about H. D. Thoreau again.
This has been my narrative. Please see the next time for the reflection.
Fun: this is it.
Riding… but not passively.
Buses… What does the world know about buses?
First let me start by saying that if anyone can make me feel patriotic it is my own dear Henry David Thoreau. In his lovely epistle Walking he waxes eloquently about the benefits of ambulating through the woods, claiming and perhaps proving that noble souls are only created in the wilderness, and which place has more wilderness than our own loverly country? He rests his case extremely effectively, and I agree with him. Noble souls are born in exploration of the unknown. The mettle of men are tested in the wilderness of the soul. As if only at the marrow of men, when the centre is all that remains, can men choose whom they wish to be.
I think Thoreau makes one crucial mistake: he belittles urbanity. I’m living in Glasgow, Scotland; a city far older than the country Thoreau speaks so beautifully, and to speak truthfully, there ain’t much rural wilderness hereabouts. (Or anywhere in Britain really) Yesterday I went to Sir Walter Scott’s country home (called Abottsford). We drove for two hours into the most deserted part of Scotland and it looked freshly mowed. The virgin forests and wide expanses of Virginia simply don’t exist here.
So what if Scotland is a pastoral paradise? If you can’t go anywhere without running over a sheep? If fences and fields stretch from coast to coast? (All 200 miles)
I refuse to believe the Scottish are doomed to small lives and small thoughts because their forefathers tamed the land for them.
In my attempt to discover how the Scottish develop their eternal souls I turn to their alternative mode of transportation: Riding the bus.
Let it be known that as I write this I am riding the NightFlyer, a night bus down to London (The cheapest way to get there). Whilst walking, via Thoreau, is an exploration of self in the grand expanses of the American wilderness, riding the bus is an exploration of everyone else, on those days (or now) when the bus is full and you sit next to someone you’ve never seen before and don’t really want to find out how they smell, you can really see how people live.
How do people respond when a women with a stroller gets on the bus? Or a man with twin toddlers? Or a hunched over old woman, a unsteady older man refusing to surrender to a cane? Perhaps the young couple with dreadlocks, the middle aged lady with the big dog, or the African woman speaking into the phone a language I would swear is Creole but acts confused when I ask? (yes, I ask every time. I’m desperate for someone to speak Creole to…)
I say riding the bus is a practice in empathy. Living this close to someone else, connected with them daily, gets you thinking. And that is what the wilderness was for Thoreau, a place for thinking, for sounding the depths of your ideas of who you are and challenging the fiber of your character to see what you are made of.
I do think this leads to the primary difference between Europeans and United Staters: (I’m removing American from my vocabulary) Europeans realize they must live with each other. US-ers act as if when they get rich enough they don’t have to live with anyone else, removing themselves completely from society. Europeans seem to understand that we are all here, for better or for worse; we are all here for good. Acting out of that understanding they create lifestyles which follow Kant’s categorical imperative, that those circumstances under which everyone can live are those under which I must live. For this reason and primarily this reason, United Staters look toward Europe as a symbol of social progress.